Tank for Bearded Dragons

The tank for your Bearded dragon –Pogona vitticeps– should be as broad as possible that we could afford. We started saying that a great facility for maintaining Bearded dragons is not necessary, but we can not have them in a shoebox. A pogona a year will reach more than 30cm in size and a large male adult status easily be around 45-50cm. So the minimum recommended size for a suitable cage is 100 cm long, 50 cm high and 50 cm deep. But like all good reptile lover knows, the rule is almost never contradicts the bigger the better. A terrarium of this size it can be purchased, or if we are working manufactured by ourselves. As theBearded dragons are reptiles rather arid habitat we can use wood as the main material and place then only the front glass. We’ll write a short article about building a home cage for Bearded dragons. Any of these options is good, so if I do not recommend at all to use aquariums as to only have top ventilation may be inadequate for maintaining reptiles dry climates often have respiratory infections quickly in situations of poor ventilation and increase in the ambient relative humidity. So, the best is a wooden or glass terrarium with front and / or side vents and front opening. The front opening doors are not only more practical and comfortable for us, also for the Bearded dragons. Especially when they are accustomed to us and for their socialization process, seeing that grab de Pogona from the front is always stressful phenomenon that if grab it from the top. They could take us by a predator or threat, and that is a source of stress we want at all costs to avoid. For cage substrate we can use newspaper, which is most clean and practical, coir or peat. Although we can find calcisand substrates, shells and similar kind in the trade, and it is true that many breeders use them as personal experience story that I do not give me confidence so I do not like or recommend them. If you search at google something like pogona vitticeps impaction will see information and cases of all kinds, among which you will find various clinical pictures of impaction (blockage caused by eating soil) in particular Bearded dragons by ingestion of substrates that are usually calcium or mostly “sand type desert”. At first no healthy reptile should eat substrate, but either through lack of minerals in your diet or a monotonous diet often triggers some Pogonas end up eating the substrate. If this becomes a frequent activity can provoke impaction which we spoke, which causes the Pogona can not stop feeding and defecating. In severe cases if not detected and treated, to cause the death of the animal. That said, the choice is yours, I only expose some data so you can choose what you think is best.

Our Bearded dragons cage also need some branches or logs that are well find subjects for which the reptile climb to monitor its territory and receive heat from the lamp. Which is quite the case to discuss terrarium lighting point that we should not let pass side as it is a key to the health and growth of our pogonas element. For any Bearded dragon, we need a full spectrum UVB lamp 10.0. This is what we need for desert reptiles and sun lovers such as pogonas. Any other type of lighting does not help us. It is this type of UVB light that gets pogonas that can properly absorb calcium and have no developmental problems in their bones. This is coupled with impaction, one of the most common disorders in pogonas and that soon could cause death of a pogona whether exposure to UVB radiation is not correct. Explained lighting, say our pogona need a source of heat or hotspot. This is a bulb which creates a zone of heat to appropriate size and vitticeps higher than the rest of the terrarium temperature. This is how are “activated” reptiles, warming. For an adult Bearded dragon terrarium 100-120cm long we can use 2-3 spot bulbs of any kind. Terrarium 50 cm forward a good choice is a mercury vapor bulb about 80w. which also it provides a potent source of UVB. At this point you might wonder then that type of combination used for lighting and heating of the terrarium; Well, not complicate life, I will say that for a terrarium of 100x50x50 can use a specific tube for reptiles UVB 10.0, 1 bulb 60w spot or type 2 30-40w. The goal is to get what is called a thermal gradient in the terrarium so Bearded dragons can thermoregulate while changing of place in the terrarium. Just as it would in nature. From end to end of the terrarium we should have a colder area of ​​about 23-25 ​​° C, a hot zone around 29-31 ° C and under the heat source between 37-40 ° C. The need for this thermal gradient is also what justifies the need for a relatively large terrarium. In a terrarium of less than 1 meter in length and 50×50 hardly could get a point 40 ° C heat without the rest of the terrarium was too hot. Now, if we use a larger terrarium, 140x100x70 as my installation, we need at least two fluorescent tubes 10.0 and UVB two to three mercury vapor lamps 80w to create the heat source, or in default of similar power halogens . And this will also depend on the ambient temperature of the room where the Pogona cage is. So in summary, you’ll need a thermometer probe, and make relevant evidence in your terrarium to see what you need. As I said before, usually it works from the basis of a 10.0 UVB tube covering the length of the terrarium and 40-60w spot and from there make our thermometer measurements and increase the accessories according to need, adding a focus mercury vapor, put another if our terrarium fluorescent tube has more than 50cm deep, etc. A specific type of focus for reptiles that is becoming more used for its good results are for example the Solar Glo Exoterra or Solar Raptor, which are equally mercury vapor that give light, UVB quality and heat source all in one . Once solved the issue and checked temperatures and lighting our terrarium, we must point out that until now were “working” only with daytime temperatures. Once night comes (after 10-12 hours of light) will turn off lights and spotlights. It is useful to help a timer sale at any hardware for this task. And as night comes, and after a few hours, the temperature of the terrarium should fall to about 21-25 ° c. Should never lose 20 th c. whereby we must be sure. A good way is to use a thermal blanket thermostat similar to our pogona size. We will put this blanket outside the terrarium if glass or wood is protected with a sheet of plywood on top to prevent burns and accidents. And thanks to the thermostat, simply if the temperature is lower than 20 ° C will turn on and not have to worry.

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